For some, this is pumpkin spice season.

Not for me, however–and that’s not just because I am on team death-to-pumpkin-spice. (Little irritates me more about American food culture than the existence of the pumpkin spice latte and its subsequent abbreviation to “PSL.”)

Rather, it’s because for me–and for all people who love to cook–this is the beginning of winter squash season: when it is cold enough to fire up your stove or turn on your oven and make something warm and comforting out of the butternuts, honeynuts, and kabochas that have turned up at the market in the past few weeks. Because far better than “pumpkin spice” is, you know, a pumpkin with some actual spices on it.
A real pumpkin-type veg cooked with real spices is invariably better and more interesting than any weird pumpkin-spiced food you picked up at the grocery store. For one, you’re not consuming your entire daily allowance of sugar in one fell swoop. But just as important, you can be far more creative than typical “pumpkin spice” recipes, which only ever use nutmeg, cinnamon, allspice, and cloves.

Take, for instance, this soup. Instead of the usual butternut, it calls for acorn squash–a lightly flavored, fairly sweet, fantastically-colored option. And instead of sweet, warm spices like nutmeg, it calls for intensely savory ones, such as cumin, turmeric, mustard seeds, and curry leaves. Fry these spices with garlic and ginger and stir them though a soup of squash and coconut milk–another atypical addition–and you end up with an entirely unexpected soup that will still warm you to your toes.

Don’t be boring with your pumpkins and spices. Make this, instead.

---

Previously:
One year ago:  Pear and Almond Tart
Two years ago: Acorn Squash, Brussels Sprouts, and Quinoa Salad with Pomegranate-Shallot Vinaigrette (speaking of acorn squash…)

And for my Australians:
Six months ago: Mexico City Food Guide (developed with a dear friend and former CDMX resident)
1.5 years ago: Tip: How to Lessen the Bite of Red Onions
2.5 years ago: Muesli with Nuts, Dried Fruit, and Coconut (this is easy and makes a ton)

Also in the winter squash genre:
Curried Butternut Squash and Apple Soup (basically the novice/weeknight version of the below recipe)
Butternut Squash Mac and Cheese
Butternut Squash Lasagna with Sage, Caramelized Onions, and Tofu Ricotta (a project, but worth the effort!)
Squash Toasts with Goat’s Cheese and Caramelized Onions

---

Acorn Squash and Coconut Milk Soup with Fried Indian Spices

Serves 4-5
Inspired by the ABCDs of Cooking

Ingredients

Soup
2 large acorn squash (about 5.5 pounds/2.5kg) (If you can’t find acorn squash, butternut will work, too)
1 tablespoons neutral oil (like canola)
1 onion, chopped
1 1/2 teaspoons coriander
1/2 teaspoon cumin
one big pinch curry leaves (see notes following recipe)
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1/8-1/4 teaspoon cayenne, to taste
27 ounces (800mL) coconut milk (this should be two 13.5-oz/400-mL cans)
2 cups vegetable stock
1 cup water
Juice of 1/2 of a lemon

Fried spices
2-3 tablespoons neutral oil (like canola)
4 cloves garlic, sliced
2-inch (5-cm) piece of ginger, peeled and minced
two big pinches curry leaves
1 1/2 teaspoons black mustard seeds
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
pinch of red pepper flakes

Instructions

Preheat oven to 400F (204C).

Cut the acorn squash in half vertically. Use a big spoon to scoop out the seeds. Place squash, cut side down, on a baking paper-lined baking sheet; alternatively, rub the cut sides of the squash with a bit of oil, then place them cut-side down on an unlined baking sheet. (A rimmed baking sheet would be ideal here: my squash was quite moist and so when it baked, liquid poured off and burned onto the bottom of the oven, ugh.) Bake for 45 minutes, or until squash is soft. Let cool, then scoop flesh out of rind. Dispose of rinds, leave flesh on baking tray until you need it.

While the squash is cooling, heat a tablespoon of oil in a large, heavy pot over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until soft and translucent. Add coriander, cumin, curry leaves, turmeric, and cayenne; stir for a minute or two until fragrant. Add squash and stir. Then add coconut milk, stock, and water. Let simmer 5-10 minutes. Add lemon juice. Puree with an immersion blender or by transferring into an upright blender. (If using an upright blender, remove the central plastic piece from the lid and cover the whole lid with a dish towel. If you leave the whole lid on, you risk having the lid fly off due to the pressure created by the hot liquid.) Set aside.

Finally, fry the spices. Heat the oil in a pan over medium-low heat. Add garlic and ginger and fry until lightly golden, being careful not to burn the garlic, as that will make it taste bitter. Then add the spices and fry for 30 seconds or until fragrant. Remove from heat and pour fried spices over the soup. Stir through, ladle into bowls, and serve.

Notes

Curry leaves: Don’t substitute curry powder for curry leaves–the flavor is very, very different. Just omit if you don’t have or can’t find the curry leaves!