Last spring, I had the good fortune of spending a week in Mexico City. I had heard it was massive, overcrowded, chaotic, and beset with environmental problems and income inequality. I had also heard it was filled with amazing art and architecture, was chock-a-block with hip cafes and bars, had a fascinating history, and–the big draw for me–had amazing food.
Luckily for me, a dear friend from graduate school–Kimberly, alias “Kimbo”–had been living in Mexico City for the better part of a year. In her working hours, Kimbo had been researching away at the archives. In her off hours, she had been sampling every tamale, taco, and churro the city had to offer.

Kimbo is a committed home cook. She typically eats grain and veg-forward meals. But she will eat just about anything–I’ve seen her put down everything from salt cod fritters to the darkest dark chocolate mousse with gusto. She, too, is on a budget. And luckily for me, part of her research focuses on food markets in Mexico City–which meant she took visiting as many as possible as a point of professional responsibility.With Kimbo serving as travel guide, it should come as no surprise that Mexico City was an absolute delight. I was expecting all the chaos of a major city in a developing country, and chaos I got. But I was also charmed by the colorful façades of Spanish colonial buildings, and invigorated by how those sat side by side with brutalist 1980s buildings–painted chartreuse, bright blue, and hot pink–and sparkling office towers. I smiled at how painfully cool bars inhabited centuries-old buildings, and mom-and-pop taco stands sat in front of brand-new glass storefronts. I loved the cafe culture, which reminded me of Sydney; the hipsters, which reminded me of Los Angeles; and how everyone took their dogs everywhere, which reminded me of France.

And I loved–loved–the food. From cheap al-pastor tacos to high-end restaurants, the food in CDMX killed it. Every food felt like a party in my mouth: the ceviche was sour and fresh, the mole was like smokey velvet, the tortillas were hot and soft, the salsas fresh and juicy and burning hot.
To make sure you eat just as well, Kimbo has teamed up with me to produce the list below. Sprinkle a bit of shopping, museum-hopping, and history stuff among your DIY food tour, and you will have yourself a wonderful holiday.

Previously:
One year ago: How to lessen the bite of red onions
Two years ago: Muesli with Nuts, Dried Fruit, and Coconut

And for my Australians:
Six months ago: Tarte à La Tomate
One and a half years ago: Acorn Squash, Brussels Sprouts, and Quinoa Salad with Pomegranate-Shallot Vinaigrette

Other travel guides:
Tulum Food Guide

Mexico City Food Guide

Amaya

Kimbo says…
The deal: If you want spectacular food and a chic but low-key vibe, I’d suggest Amaya in the Juarez neighborhood near the Zona Rosa. Their service is just lovely, the space is beautiful, and their dishes always surprised me.
Hours: 1:30pm-11:30pm Monday-Saturday. I can’t figure out if they’re open on Sundays–call ahead. Reservations necessary in peak hours.
Price: 400-600 pesos per person
Where: Calle Gral. Prim 95, Juárez (map)

Chico Julio

Lauren says…
The deal: Cute, casual joint for fish tacos, ceviche, and fish tostadas. Good margaritas, too. Located in the very hip/hipster Roma Norte neighborhood.
Hours: 12-8pm Sunday through Wednesday; 12-10pm Thursday-Saturday
Price: 50ish pesos per taco, 60ish pesos per tostada
Where: Jalapa 126, Roma Norte (map)
Website: Chico Julio

Dosis Cafe

Lauren says…
The deal: A great cup of coffee in a modern and minimalist yet welcoming cafe. Is this Sydney? Also: free wifi.
Hours: 8am-10pm Monday-Saturday, 11am-9pm Sunday
Price: Ranges from 35 pesos for an espresso to 55 pesos for cold brew.
Where: Av. Alvaro Obregon 24B, Roma Norte (map)
Website: Dosis Cafe

Dulcería de Celaya

Lauren says…
The deal: Duclería de Celaya has been in business since 1874, making it the oldest sweet shop in Mexico City. Its gilded facade almost baroque interior make say nineteenth-century jewelry shop; the contents of the gleaming glass cases say gimme that dessert. All the sweets use flavors indigenous to the region: think coconut, lime, tamarind, mango, chocolate, and candied squash. (I love coconut, so a sweetened coconut and lime confection had me giddy.)
Hours: 10:30am-7:30pm, Monday-Sunday
Price: Cheap!
Where: Av. 5 de Mayo 39, Centro Histórico (map)

El Moro

Lauren says…
The deal: I’ve always been a churro devotee–fried dough with cinnamon sugar, how can you lose?–but even if you’re not, you should make a point to try El Moro. Their churros are so fresh, so crispy, and so damn good that a line wound around the block the night it re-opened after a fire–leading Kimbo to believe a nightclub, not a churro joint, was opening down the block. Don’t skip the hot chocolate, which is rich and thick. And don’t be deterred by the line, which moves very quickly.
Hours: 24 hours a day at the downtown location; 8am-10pm at the Roma Norte location on Álvaro Obregón.
Price: 72 pesos for churros and hot chocolate.
Where: See full list of locations here
Website: El Moro

Los Tamales de la Roma

Kimbo says…
The deal: I lived across the street Tamales Roma and thought I’d “discovered” this hole-in-the-wall gem until a Chilango friend was like, “pfft, everyone knows Tamales Roma.” Apparently, it’s famous in Mexico City. It’s also incredibly cheap, cash only, and they don’t serve beer, so it’s a great lunch place. Highly recommend any of the tamales oaxaqueños.
Hours: 8am-10pm. But: no beer, so go for lunch or a snack.
Price: Cheap, cash only
Where: Jalapa 99, Roma Norte (map)

Panadería Rosetta

Lauren says…
The deal: Truly amazing brekky pastries out of a very narrow, very charming storefront in Roma Norte. I tried the cardamom bun on the first day of my trip and had it nearly every day thereafter–breaking my streak only to sample the equally good gianduia-stuffed doughnut situation. Their coffee is also good. Can’t recommend this place enough.
Hours: 7am-9pm Monday-Saturday, 7:30am-6pm Sunday (but this is really breakfast food–go before noon)
Price: I remember being not shocked by the prices, so I’m going to guess 3USD for a pastry and 2-3 USD for a coffee.
Where: Colima 179, Roma Norte (map)
Website:Panadería Rosetta

Sabores México Food Tours

Lauren says…
The deal: An epic, five-hour-long food tour of Mexico City. We tried everything from the smokiest mole to fresh Oaxacan cheese to a salsa made from crickets. We talked with market vendors selling ingredients used in indigenous cooking. We sat at a street side ceviche stand and chowed down on seafood cocktail. And we walked away very, very full.
Price and bookings: 65USD per person. Expensive, but we learned–and ate–a ton. Definitely come hungry and don’t plan on eating dinner after. We did the Historic Center tour.
Website:Sabores Mexico Food Tours

Tacos Álvaro Obregón

Lauren says…
The deal: Cheap-as-chips al pastor tacos, to be dressed with your choice of spicy salsa, served in a no-frills environment–think fluorescent lighting, orange walls, orange plastic tables, and orange plates. Not a place to linger, but certainly a place with damn good food. Open late, should drunk cravings arise. Kimbo ate here very, very regularly when she lived in CDMX.
Hours: 5pm-3am Monday-Saturday; 5pm-midnight Sunday
Price: I don’t remember the exact price. I do remember thinking I could afford to eat as many as I wanted–and I am a graduate student. So: cheap. But: I think it is cash only.
Where: Av. Álvaro Obregón 90, Roma Norte (map)

Tostadas Coyoacán

Lauren says…
The deal: Located inside the Mercado Coyoacán, this bright-yellow joint serves up the best tostadas, offering a huge variety of toppings served on top of flat, crisp, fried tortillas–just the thing to revive you after a visit to the nearby Frida Kahlo museum. I got one shrimp and one octopus; both were bright, zingy and so fresh. Be sure to order yours con todo–with avocado, lettuce, and crumbled cheese. Don’t be fooled by nearby copycats trying to piggyback off of this place’s popularity.
Hours: 11am-6pm. We went for lunch around 1pm and it was relatively calm; I hear it gets more hectic later in the afternoon.
Price: 30-40 pesos per tostada
Where: Located inside the Coyoacán market. Address: Ignacio Allende, Coyoácan (map)

Further Mexico City recommendations

Kimbo says…

If you want to be seen having spectacular food, then head to Máximo Bistrot or Pujol, but you’ll need to make reservations weeks if not months in advance.

If you want to go out dancing: Head to Patrick Miller. The dream of the 80s is alive and well at Patrick Miller. Hipsters beware, this is an irony-free zone. A crossdressing Kiss and Pat Benatar will dance battle each other inside circles of shimmying regulars. It’s glorious and free and like nothing else you will see in the city. I wish I’d discovered it sooner. If you go: Dancing doesn’t usually get going until at least midnight. Bring cash for the cover but save most of your drinking for somewhere else. The music is great; the booze is terrible. (Located close to the Cuauhtémoc metro station, map here.)

If you want to go for a drink: Pata Negra in Condesa. The wood paneled and welcoming bar downstairs serves great drinks and often has a live, local band after about 9 pm, which you can catch before heading upstairs to the night club. You’ll run into about as many hip expats as Chilangos as Condesa attracts international residents. Condesa is a trendy neighborhood that is notoriously difficult to get to be public transit–easiest to reach by Uber (map here).

If you want to hit a market: If you ever wanted to feel like Eliza in My Fair Lady, Jamaica Market is the flower market for you. If you happen to be there within a month of the Day of the Dead or Holy Week, you’re in for a treat as the market overflows with marigolds, white lilies, and every kind of festival food, drink, and ritual. Jamaica is also a good choice if you’re interested in checking out a market but would rather not navigate the overwhelming Merced market. Located at 45, Guillermo Prieto, Jamaica (map); Jamaica metro station (lines 4 and 9).

Lauren says…

If you want to shop: Head to the Mercado De Artesanías La Ciudadela. This market, which covers an entire city block, is packed with textiles, pottery, home goods, arts, and crafts from around Mexico. You will get lost, you will be overwhelmed, and you will love it. (Just be sure to eat well before diving in.) Bargaining is okay, especially if you’re buying more than one of something. (Map here.)

If you want to hit a couple of museums: The Museo Nacional de Antropologia (National Anthropology Museum, map here) and the Museo Frida Kahlo (Frida Kahlo Museum, map here) are both incredible in their own ways. The former holds the world’s largest collection of Mexican art and showcases anthropological and archeological materials from the pre-Hispanic period; it is regularly described as one of the best museums in the world. The latter elucidates Frida Kahlo’s life and art in her beautiful, eccentric former home.